Day 16 –Timeless Hoi An
Hoi An’s magic is in the details—the narrow lantern-lit streets, the 400-year-old Japanese Bridge, and the bustling local markets brimming with flavors.
We visited The Reaching Out Tea House that supports disadvantaged, hearing-impaired youth, where communication is done by writing or using wooden blocks, was unexpectedly heartwarming. In that quiet space, you feel a connection not just to the local culture, but to the kindness that transcends language.
Later, I visited Mr. Xe Tailor, where the art of bespoke clothing is a way of life. Together with the designer, I discussed fabrics, styles, and details for a custom-made shirt and dress. They took my measurements, jotted notes, and told me to return that evening for my first fitting. The efficiency, skill, and warmth of Vietnamese craftsmanship never cease to amaze me.
I continued to walk the streets of Hoi An with Mr. Vinh and mentioned wanting to go to another specialty tea shop to get some tea to take home and he knew just the hidden spot. There was a quaint little tea house called La Kao that I never would have found in the back corner of several winding alleys. The owner welcomed me with a smile and free samples of cold-brew teas, explaining each blend’s origin and flavor. His generosity — and the delicate floral teas — won me over immediately. I left with far more tea than planned, but I couldn’t resist bringing a piece of this magic home.
Back at Little Oasis, I met with the general manager for a property tour. What impressed me most was their onsite water purification and bottling facility — the only hotel in the area that produces its own alkaline drinking water. The attention to detail here was remarkable, from eco-conscious design to heartfelt hospitality.
After a little downtime by the rooftop pool, I headed back into town for my fitting. The pieces were nearly perfect — a few tiny adjustments and Mr. Xe himself came to inspect the tailoring, offering expert suggestions with an artist’s pride. I promised to return in the morning for the final fitting before heading to dinner.
I ventured into a local restaurant across the river in the old town and met another Australian couple and a soon to be new friend, Jason, traveling solo from New Zealand. Jason ended up joining my table so we could finish our dinner together and chat a bit over drinks and before parting ways, exchanged numbers to meet up again the next day for drinks or dinner since we were both traveling solo.
Hoi An had a way of bringing people together — softly, naturally, like the glow of its lanterns reflected on the river.
Day 17 – Cycling Through Hoi An’s Countryside
A morning on a bicycle revealed Hoi An’s heartbeat beyond the tourist trail. WE pedaled through rice paddies and back roads before arriving at Tra Que Village’s organic gardens that were alive with aromas and colors. After learning traditional farming methods and assisting with planting and watering I don’t think the farmer was anxious to enlist me full time haha
We spoke about the changing times — how younger generations are leaving farming behind — and I felt the weight of those quiet cultural shifts. After a bit of work in the gardens, I was treated to a relaxing head and herbal foot massage before joining a private cooking class. It was time to dive into a bit of fun making Banh Xeo, a crispy, savory Vietnamese crêpe/pancake, also called a ‘sizzling cake’, with pork, shrimp, and other fillings and Tam Huu, spring rolls made with local herbs and vegetables. My cooking teacher was so sweet and patient and helped me get the techniques just right so I looked ALMOST like a pro.
After lunch, I returned to Little Oasis for a quick change before hopping on a Grab bike back to the old town. My final fitting at Mr. Xe’s was flawless — the shirt and dress fit like they were meant for me. Feeling inspired, I decided to order custom-made sandals too (because when in Hoi An, why not?). The shopkeeper took quick measurements and told me to come back that evening.
I wandered the old streets in the golden afternoon light, browsing for souvenirs, watching tailors and lantern makers work their crafts. Later, I picked up my sandals — perfect — before meeting Jason for dinner. By coincidence, he had chosen the same restaurant I’d been eyeing. We each had a plate of Cao Lau, Hoi An’s signature noodle dish, and shared various spring rolls, talking for hours about travel, life, and the strange joy of finding connection on the road.
As we said goodbye outside, the streets shimmered under the lantern light, and I thought that this — these unplanned friendships, these simple meals, these in-between moments — were what travel is really about.
Day 18 – Hoi An to Hanoi
After a leisurely morning, I flew back to Hanoi, the capital where history whispers from colonial facades, and street life hums around every corner. Although this was my second time in Hanoi after the unexpected detour earlier in the trip I was excited to experience it with fresh eyes, now softened by weeks of travel and reflection.
Evening fell into adventure as we explored the city on vintage Vespas—Hanoi After Dark. Street food, Bun Cha (at Bun Cha Huong Lien made famous by Anthony Bourdain & Obama) and pho all became part of an unforgettable narrative as we wove through the Old Quarter and ended the night with 1930s-style jazz at the oldest jazz club in Hano.
Day 19 – Hanoi: History & Hidden Alleys
The morning was my own, a gentle invitation to wander Hanoi at my own pace. I also met up with Aurel from Destination Asia to have lunch and chat about how my trip went. We ate at Tam Vi, a Michelin-starred restaurant tucked inside a colonial villa. The space was intimate, with vintage décor and an elegance that felt like stepping back in time. The flavors — delicate, balanced, deeply Vietnamese — were unforgettable, each bite a small celebration of the country’s culinary artistry.
By afternoon, I met up with my guide, Mr. Viet, for a day that would thread history and humanity together. We began at Hỏa Lò Prison, famously known as the “Hanoi Hilton.” It was a sobering yet enlightening contrast to the city’s lively streets. The prison’s stories of resilience, endurance, and tragedy mirrored those we had encountered in Phnom Penh, tying together threads of Vietnam and Cambodia’s turbulent histories.
From there, we slowed our pace with a cyclo ride through the Old Quarter- a slow, rhythmic journey through the maze of alleyways where history lives in every brick and storefront. Stopping at a roadside café for a drink, we had a chance to people watch and take in the beautiful flower shop across the street.
The evening brought a lighter, magical touch with a Water Puppet Show, an ancient tradition dating back to the 11th century. The puppets danced across the water, manipulated by hidden performers, while a traditional Vietnamese orchestra and singers brought each story to life.
As dusk settled, I wandered through the Old Quarter, looking for souvenirs to bring home. The markets glowed with color — silk lanterns, lacquer boxes, embroidered scarves. My suitcase was already overflowing, but I still needed some souvenirs for family.
Day 20 – Halong & Lan Ha Bay: Natural Splendor
A 2.5-hour drive took us from Hanoi to Tuan Chau jetty, and soon, the Mon Chéri Cruise awaited. The bay unfolded like a painting—emerald waters punctuated by towering limestone karsts and hidden caves, each turn revealing a new breathtaking vista. Keep in mind Halong Bay is pretty crowded with boats but we kept a decent distance from too many others while sailing and it still felt peaceful and enjoyable.
Lunch on board was a chance to meet other passengers for what would be a fun but short journey. As we cruised deeper into Lan Ha Bay, the crowds thinned and the tranquility deepened. The world seemed to slow to the rhythm of the waves.
There were several activities to choose from the first afternoon from kayaking to swimming or taking in the amenities onboard. On my way down to the main deck for kayaking a met a nice couple from Australia and little did Rob, the husband, know but he was about to get paired with me in a double kayak. Kayaking around Tra Bau allowed for an intimate exploration of the bay and we chatted about all things Australia, the US and traveling in general as we took in the silence of the cove around us. We slowly made our way back to the ship and since I was already wet from the kayak I figured I might as well go swimming so a few of us all jumped off the back of the boat into the water to swim and float around for a bit until it started raining and we finally decided to go in. For those who preferred indulgence, the top-deck Jacuzzi provided a serene perch for sunset photography—every angle a postcard.
A cooking demonstration later in the afternoon brought a hands-on connection to Vietnamese cuisine: spring rolls, rolled with care, reminding me that travel is not just about seeing, but tasting and doing. Although I had already made spring rolls on this trip I enjoyed a local beer and watched as others onboard tried their hands at the local dish. Dinner that evening was shared with new friends over conversation and laughter, followed by a bit of late-night squid fishing under the stars. The bay at night was silent except for the gentle ripple of water and the distant call of seabirds — a lullaby of peace.
Day 21 – Halong to Hanoi, Saigon & Farewell
The final morning began early, with soft light breaking across the horizon. Some guests joined a Tai Chi session on deck — graceful silhouettes moving in sync with the morning mist — while I enjoyed a quiet breakfast, savoring the stillness.
Before disembarking, we explored Trung Trang Cave on Cát Bà Island, a wonder of stalactites and stalagmites, before returning to the main vessel for our last meal on the Mon Chéri Cruise.
Disembarking at Tuan Chau Marina, it was time to bid farewell to the bay’s beauty and begin my long journey back home to Florida. After a 2 hour transfer back to Hanoi’s airport my flight connections brought me to Ho Chi Minh City, where my incredible journey came full circle. Thoughts of the Mekong’s gentle flow, Hoi An’s lantern-lit streets, Hanoi’s bustling alleys, and Halong Bay’s serene vistas swirled together—a tapestry of experiences, tastes, and reflections that will linger long after the last plane touched down.
As I prepared for the final flight home in the Japan Airlines Lounge, I carried with me not just memories, but stories: the triumphs and tragedies of those I met, the warmth of local communities, the intimacy of rural villages, and the awe-inspiring landscapes of Vietnam and Cambodia. This was more than travel—it was a journey into the heart of two extraordinary countries, their histories, and their people.
There’s a special kind of anticipation that comes with travel days — that feeling of standing between worlds. My last morning in Hanoi was slow and quiet, spent repacking and wondering how everything had possibly fit into my suitcase to begin with.
The two-hour flight to Siem Reap felt like more than a border crossing; it was a shift in rhythm. Cambodia greeted me with warmth — both in temperature and in spirit. Upon arrival, I was met airside by Destination Asia’s fast-track and visa team, who guided me smoothly through immigration. My guide, Sovan, waited just beyond the arrivals hall with a cool towel, a smile as bright as the Cambodian sun, and that same genuine hospitality I’d come to treasure across Southeast Asia.
The drive into Siem Reap was peaceful — the hum of night cicadas, soft rain tapping on the car windows, the world outside dark and still. My hotel, the Shinta Mani Angkor, was everything I hoped for and more: contemporary Khmer design surrounded by lush gardens, blending luxury with soul. The staff greeted me by name, offered an upgrade, and escorted me to my room with effortless grace.
As I settled in, the sound of rain became my lullaby. Tomorrow, a new chapter — and a new country — would begin.ple.