Day 9 – Life on the Water & the Brightness of Art
After a leisurely breakfast at Shinta Mani
Angkor, I wandered out to the pool for a little relaxation before what
would be several full days of exploration. The afternoon brought an
unforgettable experience — a cruise and kayak journey on Tonle Sap Lake,
one of Cambodia’s most extraordinary natural wonders.
When I got into the van this afternoon, our driver, Pross, handed me not just the usual cold bottled water, but a couple of energy drinks as well. The day before, he’d overheard me mention that I don’t drink soda and had noticed my quick stop at a market to grab an energy drink (my at the time caffeine vice). So that morning, he’d gone out early to stock the van with a few just for me. It was such a thoughtful gesture — a small kindness that spoke volumes. Most vehicles come prepared with standard bottled water, but Pross went above and beyond to make me feel cared for, and that little touch absolutely made my day and the next couple days we spent together.
We set out for Mechrey Village, one of Cambodia’s floating communities. The journey there felt like watching a living watercolor — houses rising on stilts, fishermen casting nets, children waving from floating houses and wooden boats. I slipped quietly into a kayak and paddled through the flooded mangrove forest, the world around me peaceful except for the sound of paddles dipping into the still, tea-colored water.
Sovann explained how Tonle Sap expands and contracts with the seasons — with water levels reaching up to 40+ feet and the area of the lake growing from about 900 sq miles in the dry season to 4,000 sq miles in the green season — A rhythm that shapes every aspect of local life. It was humbling to see how people adapt so beautifully to nature’s flow.
That evening, I traded tranquility for something vibrant — Phare, the Cambodian Circus. I arrived by tuk-tuk (a joy in itself), and the energy of the performance took me completely by surprise. Imagine a blend of Cirque du Soleil, a little cheekiness and deeply human storytelling — all driven by young Cambodian artists who’ve overcome extraordinary odds. Acrobatics, music, laughter, emotion — it was one of those moments that remind you why cultural travel matters.
Day 10 – Sacred Mountains & the “Citadel of Women”
Today was devoted to exploration beyond the temples — a deeper dive into Cambodia’s sacred landscapes. We set out early in a vintage Army Jeep toward Phnom Kulen, or “Lychee Mountain” , a sandstone plateau considered sacred by the Khmers. The drive alone was spectacular — red dirt roads winding through emerald jungle, the air filled with the scent of damp earth.
Kulen is where the Khmer Empire was born, and once you are at the highest point of the area, you will feel why the ancient Khmer king built it on top of the mountain.
We visited the reclining Buddha carved directly into the mountain rock, passed over the “River of a Thousand Lingas,” watching the water shimmer over ancient carvings believed to be sacred and finally walking along the top of the mountain to the waterfall. This is a popular swimming hole for locals to take a picnic and cool off in the waters and I could easily see why.
Lunch was plentiful at a local restaurant on our way to Banteay Srei, often called the “Citadel of Women.” This 10th-century temple is delicate, carved from rose-colored sandstone that glows in the afternoon sun. Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva the carved male and female figures in the niches are exquisitely executed in both style and proportion and look almost hand-drawn despite centuries of wear.
It felt like standing in the pages of a storybook. By evening, back in Siem Reap, I felt both exhilarated and humbled — the kind of day that lingers long after sunset.
This evening, I caught up with Richard, the General Manager of Destination Asia’s Cambodia offices. We grabbed a table outside a cozy Greek restaurant in the heart of Siem Reap — the perfect spot for people-watching and conversation. Over a leisurely dinner, we talked travel, Cambodia’s ever-evolving charm, and a few exciting sneak peeks at new experiences soon to be added to their portfolio.
After dinner I wandered the infamous pub street and decided to get a massage after a bumpy jeep ride earlier in the day. I have to say I will never get tired of the cheap massages you can get in Vietnam and Cambodia, and I probably didn’t take advantage of this as much as I would have liked.
Day 11 – Sunrise Over Angkor & a Farewell to Siem Reap
The alarm went off at 4:00 AM, and though I’m not always a morning person, I was excited to wake up early for this moment. We reached Angkor Wat just before dawn. We arrived in darkness, flashlights guiding our steps toward the temple’s lotus ponds. Slowly, the first hints of gold brushed across the horizon, reflecting in the still water. The silhouette of Angkor Wat emerged — grand, mysterious, eternal.
After sunrise, we were the first people into the complex guided by a random dog that acted as the gate keeper to the temple. Each corridor was a marvel of precision and devotion — endless bas-reliefs telling stories of gods, wars, and legends. It’s impossible not to be awed by the scale, the precision, and the devotion that built this masterpiece.
My guide, Sovan, shared intricate details and mythological insights that made the stones come alive. One carving, The Churning of the Sea of Milk, fascinated me most — 91 demons and 89 gods tugging on the serpent Vasuki, a cosmic tug-of-war symbolizing balance in the universe. Even the numbers — connected to solstices and equinoxes — spoke to the extraordinary mathematical and spiritual knowledge of the Khmer. There are 91 demons and 89 gods related to the number of days in between the equinox to summer and winter solstice. Winter Solstice is December 21st and Summer Solstice is June 21st . Equinox happens in two months for 5 days, the first being March for 3 days (21st-23rd) and then September for 2 days (21st– 22nd). The number of gods and demons are related to the number of days between equinox to the winter and summer solstice. For example, to count from September 23rd to December 20th is 89 days (there are 89 gods)… and the demons stand for the period only between June 22nd and Sept. 20th which are 91 days, the rest are 89 days.
Sovan also pointed out a carving of an old man resting in a hammock — believed to be the architect of Angkor Wat. The simplicity of his depiction, against the grandeur of his creation, felt poetic. I couldn’t fathom the brilliance it took to design such symmetry, align it to the stars, and execute it with such precision — all without modern tools.
After Exploring Angkor Wat I had a late breakfast at Sala Kdei — where a beautiful private table was set up on the balcony of a serene traditional house overlooking a lotus pond. After a long morning thus far exploring, my private table overflowed with Cambodian breakfast delicacies — every dish beautifully presented and delicious. After eating such a large breakfast I felt like someone was also going to need to have the kings people carry me in a hammock for the rest of the days tour haha I was met with the next closest thing which was our driver Pross picking us up in the car to continue to Ta Prohm, the famous “Tomb Raider” temple. Here, nature and architecture have merged completely: massive silk-cotton trees wrapping their roots around ancient stone. It’s hauntingly beautiful, a tangible reminder of impermanence and leaving behind a “forgotten city” feeling.
Our final stop was Bayon Temple within Angkor Thom — where 200 smiling stone faces gaze serenely in every direction. Each seemed to carry its own expression: wise, kind, mischievous. Sovan explained the significance of the number nine, echoed throughout the complex, every element mathematically aligned. The symmetry was astounding.
In case you’re curious… At the gateway are 54 demons= 5+4= 9 same as 54 gods. If you take the demons + the gods : 54+54 = 108 so 1+8= 9. There are a total of 5 gates so 108 demons and gods times 5 = 540 and 5+4=9 . The number of towers at Bayon is 49 + 5 gates =54, 5+4=9 . 1 tower carved 4 faces times 45 towers, 54X4=216 and 2+1+6=9. I could go on and on but it’s fascinating all the precision that lay hidden among the entirety of the Angkor Complex.
That afternoon, I had a late check out at Shinta Mani and some free time to shop for souvenirs in town before boarding a short flight to Phnom Penh.
Day 12 - Phnom Penh & Embarkation on Aqua Mekong
Today’s morning was heavy, yet profoundly moving. We stepped into the silence of The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek as my guide, Mrs. Chenda, recounted the atrocities that took place here. The monument built here is the first thing you see and contains over 8,985 skulls and clothing of just some of the estimated 20,000+ prisoners they believe died here. I was honestly a bit taken aback as we stepped out toward the walkway through part of the field and Mrs. Chenda pointed out that the ground, which was covered in white pieces, were actually people’s teeth and parts of bones, along with shredded pieces of clothing. It was the green season when I arrived so much of the field was covered in tall grass concealing many of the remains of the victims but in the dry season they lay bare as a reminder of the souls who were lost here. The decision to leave the site largely undisturbed is a profound act of respect; the souls here are allowed to finally rest. There were countless gruesome tools used to brutalize the prisoners at this site and I can’t even begin to put into words how disgustingly savage the khmer rouge got with their torture/killings. I’ll spare the readers of this blog the exact details, but this is a site I believe shouldn’t be missed when in Phnom Penh as it is an important part of human history that I hope doesn’t repeat itself.
Upon leaving the killing fields I was already feeling a bit emotionally overwhelmed but knew there was more to learn as we next entered the sobering corridors of Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum aka the main detention and torture center named S-21 , where the walls themselves seemed to whisper stories of pain and resilience. Meeting survivor Chum Mey was indescribable. Chum Mey was a mechanic, who was taken into S-21 in October 1978, just a few months before the regime fell. There he was imprisoned in a brick cell about two metres by one metre wide, blindfolded and shackled to the floor. For twelve days and nights he was tortured, as his interrogators tried to make him confess to spying for the United States and Russia. He was allowed to live because he was of use to the regime, fixing sewing machines in the prison workshop. On January 7th 1979, Vietnamese troops captured Phnom Penh from the Khmer Rouge, and the prison staff fled. Chum Mey was marched at gunpoint by prison guards into the provinces, where he had a chance meeting with his wife, and held for the first time, his fourth child, a boy, just two months old. Two days later, soldiers shot dead his wife and baby, as Chum Mey escaped. He along with other survivors gave evidence at the Khmer Rouge Tribunal trial against the former 2-1 commander Comrade Duch in 2011. Chum Mey’s harrowing memories are reminders of the human capacity for endurance and the importance of remembering history so its tragedies are never repeated. Walking through the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and S-21,I felt a deep reverence for the lives lost and the resilience of those who survived.
Lunch at Sombok Restaurant was a small reprieve—a moment to reflect and process before our next adventure.
By afternoon, I boarded the Aqua Mekong — and it felt like stepping into a floating sanctuary. The transition from grief to grace was almost poetic. The sleek, understated design of the ship blended seamlessly with the river’s calm presence. The staff greeted me with cool towels, refreshing drinks, and genuine warmth.
The hotel manager onboard greeted me with a personal tour of the main public areas of the ship and all the features in my suite.
The entire ship carried an effortless barefoot luxury vibe — even the staff went shoeless throughout the voyage. Guests were encouraged to do the same, as our shoes were collected each time we stepped on the ship to be cleaned, ensuring no cross-contamination between the regions we visited. My sneakers actually came back cleaner after each excursion than they were the day I bought them — one of the many seamless touches that defined life aboard the Aqua Mekong.
Our suites were no exception. Daily complimentary laundry service kept everything fresh, and the rooms themselves were spacious, elegantly designed, and finished to perfection — plush towels, crisp bedding, and every detail you’d expect from a five-star resort. But let me tell you about the beds — because I may brag about them until the day I die. I’ve been fortunate to sleep in some of the world’s best hotels and luxury ships, yet I have never slept better than I did on the Aqua Mekong. The mattress was the perfect balance of firm and soft, cradling every curve, while the pillow felt like resting your head on a custom-made cloud. Each morning, I lingered longer than I should have, inevitably becoming the last one to breakfast — but it was always worth it.
I wasn’t alone, either. When I confessed my late arrival that first morning, everyone else laughed and agreed — the beds and pillows were heavenly. Even the towels were indulgent, oversized and impossibly soft, wrapping you in what could only be described as a warm, comforting hug after a perfectly pressured rain shower.
I could go on and on about these small luxuries, but that’s exactly what makes Aqua stand out. Every detail — from a spotless shoe to a perfect night’s sleep — is deliberately designed to create an atmosphere of calm, comfort, and restoration. It’s those thoughtful touches, the ones you might almost overlook, that make the experience unforgettable.
Then it was time to meet the other guests onboard for a pre dinner drink and entertainment. I soon realized the clean dress I planned to wear was wrinkled from bad packing and despite laundry service not technically being available yet the staff whisked my dress away to be ironed quickly, which speaks how much the staff goes above and beyond to meet any request small or big. After changing for dinner and heading back up to the lounge/bar areas to meet the other 7 guests onboard (there were only 8 of us on this sailing and it felt like we had our own private yacht), I was greeted by a German family of 4, a couple from Australia and another solo traveler from Spain. Little did we know we would all spend so much time together and become close by the end of the journey.
Before leaving port, we were treated to a mesmerizing Apsara dance onboard, the classical movements whispering tales from Angkor Wat. The colors, the grace, the music—it was the perfect reminder that Cambodia is a country of depth, both heartbreaking and breathtaking.
This was followed by a delicious dinner in the dining room as we sailed past the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh which is all lit up at night shining so bright it reminded me a bit of the special glow you experience sailing by the parliament building all lit up at night on the Danube River in Budapest. After a long day and delicious dinner, we all broke off to our cabins to get some rest for an early next morning start.
Day 13 – Crossing into Vietnam & Chau Doc Exploration
Border formalities had been handled entirely by the ship’s incredible crew overnight, so by the time we awoke, we were already gliding back into Vietnam. The transition was effortless, as if the river itself had carried us across unseen lines.
As we arrived in Chau Doc, the Aqua Mekong dropped Anchor in the river and we had our first experience with Aqua’s own custom made skiffs (they are the only cruise line on the Mekong with their own skiffs) to take us into the city which hummed with life. A rickshaw (xe loi) ride through the bustling streets introduced me to a kaleidoscope of sights, smells, and sounds: fresh produce, the laughter of children, and the steady rhythm of daily life along the Mekong. Our expedition guide, Phi, bought some of his favorite childhood sweet treats and some exotic fruits for us to try along the way.
At Long Son Pagoda on Sam Mountain, the panorama of the delta was nothing short of magical. The calm of the sacred space contrasted beautifully with the city’s energy.
During lunch back onboard, we had one of the most delicious, sweet chili sauces with our meal and that we continued talking about it throughout the day and eventually made a point to ask Chef Davet for the recipe. I doubt it will ever taste the same at home as it did onboard, with ingredients fresh from the Mekong Delta but we can dream right? I’ll admit, I’m terrible at remembering to take photos of my food, probably because I dive in the moment it arrives. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it: the food onboard was absolutely incredible — every meal a perfect blend of local flavor, freshness, and that little bit of magic that comes from dining on the river.
The afternoon brought a new adventure — a guided bike ride through My An Hung Village, which was a fun way to see the area and get a little exercise. It was an easy, scenic route, perfect for all skill levels. Midway through, we ferried our bikes across the river with locals and their motorbikes — an experience that made us all laugh as we balanced ourselves and our gear. After an 18.5 km ride around the town (this did not feel that long at all), we stopped for a Unicorn Dance and traditional music where Aqua expeditions had set up snacks and a specialty cocktail for us to enjoy while we watched. This performance was followed by what I can only call a snack feast of different Cambodian sweet treats and some cheese, which the village women kept insisting we try “just one more.” By the time we returned to the ship, we were full — not just with food, but with warmth.
That evening, during our daily sunset briefing and happy hour, I watched the river glow orange under the fading light. The rhythm of the Mekong was hypnotic — the kind of peace that seeps into your bones. Dinner followed, elegant yet relaxed, as laughter flowed easily among our small group of travelers who, after only a day together, already felt like friends.
Day 14 – Sa Dec & Tan Phong Island
Today was a sensory delight. In Sa Dec, we followed Aqua’s chef, Davet, into the town’s vibrant market — a kaleidoscope of color and chaos. The air buzzed with life: the clatter of cleavers, the fragrance of herbs, the chatter of vendors. We tasted and learned about ingredients central to Vietnamese cuisine — lemongrass, galangal, fresh tamarind, lotus root. Watching the chef barter with ease, I was reminded that cooking here isn’t just about flavor; it’s about connection.
Next, we visited The Lover House, made famous by Marguerite Duras’ novel, and the Kien An Cung Temple, both echoing Sa Dec’s blend of Chinese heritage and French colonial influence. Each corner told stories of a town shaped by trade, love, and resilience.
Back aboard by late morning, we gathered in the dining room for a cooking class with Chef Devat, where we got to eat our creations with lunch. Later, a behind-the-scenes tour revealed the unseen heart of the ship — from the crew quarters and galley to the engine room — a fascinating look at the flawless choreography that keeps this floating boutique hotel running smoothly.
By the afternoon, Tan Phong Island invited us into its lush fruit gardens. On this part of the Mekong only local Sampans are allowed so we skipped the skiffs and transferred via sampan to shore. The local fruit garden we were invited into was so green with what seemed like endless different types of fruits and flowers. We were invited inside the home of the owner to sample some of the fruit, have a little tea and a taste of their own rice wine — their proud “moonshine.” When the skies suddenly opened in a warm downpour, Aqua’s staff gave us a choice: return early or continue kayaking — rain or no rain. Of course, most of us chose adventure. Laughing, drenched, and paddling through silver ripples, we felt like children again. Eventually, thunder rolled in the distance, and the crew ushered us back to safety, meeting us with huge, fluffy towels and a warm welcome bak beverage.
We hurriedly got ready for the evening’s happy hour which came with an unexpected twist — Chef Devat had prepared tarantulas and crickets with dipping sauce, a local delicacy. To everyone’s surprise, each guest tried at least one. The tarantula, I’ll admit, was crisp and not too bad; the cricket, less so. But it was one of those “you only live once” moments that make travel what it is — unpredictable, brave, and utterly unforgettable.
After an adventurous snack we took our specialty cocktail of the day on the top back deck of the ship. As the sun set, painting the sky pink and gold, a rainbow arched across the horizon. It felt like nature’s toast to our journey. We sipped cocktails on the top deck, laughing and reminiscing as the Mekong flowed below. Later, the crew surprised us with a slideshow — photos from the past three days that had captured our smiles, muddy shoes, rain-soaked kayaking, and pure joy. We all gathered for one final dinner, tables pushed together family-style, the room filled with laughter and connection.
When I finally returned to my cabin that night, I stood by the window watching the dark river slip past, my reflection fading into the stars. I thought about how the Mekong had carried us — not just across borders, but deeper into the heart of Southeast Asia itself.
Day 15 – My Tho to Hoi An via Ho Chi Minh City
Morning came too soon. After a final breakfast, we disembarked at My Tho, bidding farewell to the Aqua Mekong and her incredible crew. The expedition staff comes with us on the transfer to Ho Chi Minh City , punctuated with a stop at Vinh Trang Pagoda, a sanctuary of intricate architecture and tranquil bonsai gardens. Arriving at The Reverie Saigon, the drop off point for Aqua Expedition guests, I was met by my Romeo & Dan from earlier in my trip who took me out to an early lunch before my onward flight to Danang.
A private transfer from Danang onward to Hoi An revealed a different pace: serene riverside streets, lantern-lit evenings, and the promise of a hands-on tailor experience. My guide, Mr. Vinh, went over the next days plans before dropping me off at the hotel, Little Oasis. Little Oasis, my sanctuary for the next few days, offered the perfect base for exploring Hoi An’s timeless charm.
Dinner that night was simple but perfect — eaten outdoors beside a pond where bullfrogs sang their nocturnal chorus. I lingered long after my meal, watching their reflections ripple in the water. After weeks of motion, I felt grounded again. Tomorrow would bring the timeless charm of Hoi An — a new rhythm, quieter and deeply soulful.